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What is a Hazard Tree?

A hazard tree has a structural defect that may cause the tree or a portion of the tree to fall on someone or something else of value. This is a legal gray area, but for a tree to be a hazard, a target must be within the falling distance of the tree or the part that fails. A target means people, vehicles and structures. Therefore, a defective tree in the woods or an open field, or away from paths in an arboretum need not necessarily be considered a hazard.

To look for hazardous conditions, inspect each tree systematically. Start by scanning the top, using binoculars if necessary. After reviewing the crown, look downward along the trunk, then carefully examine the root zone.

Lane County Deparment of Public Works, Vegetation Division strives to limit and resolve conflicts with hazard trees within the County rights-of-way.  We respond to public concern when we recieve notification of potential hazard trees along County roadways, and work to identify when trees are a hazard, and remove trees when they pose a high risk of damage to property or a risk of injury to people.

If you detect a potential Hazard tree along a County roadway, please Contact:

Vegetation Management Coordinator (541) 682-6908 or by  email orin.schumacher@co.lane.or.us

Information to provide;

• Address or location of tree in question.
• Provide your name and contact information so we can contact you.
• Description of why the tree is a hazard.
• Your best guess as to how far the tree is growing from road edge.
• The type and height of the tree you are calling about.

How can you identify a potential Hazard Tree?

Examine the Top and Crown

Differences in Species

Some species are simply more brittle than others. This is one reason why city ordinances sometimes prohibit or discourage trees such as willows, box elders and silver maple. Plant these trees only in open areas. If they already exist on your property, a minimum precaution would be to avoid locating play areas or patios beneath these trees.

Know the Tree's History

Sometimes past events warn of potential trouble. For example, previous topping will almost invariably result in weakly attached regrowth. Similarly, broken branches with stubs not pruned, or sprout-like regrowth after storm damage, set the stage for breakage. Recent, seemingly unexplained loss of large limbs may also be a sign of internal problems.

Determine if the Tree is Dead or Dying

With the exception of trees for wildlife where structures or human traffic are absent or rare, dead and dying trees should be promptly removed. Felling a large tree is extremely dangerous. Call an expert to do the job.

Check for Dead Branches

Loggers call dead branches widowmakers and treat them with great respect. Homeowners should do likewise. Dead limbs are an accident waiting to happen. They can fall in the slightest breeze, when a mower bumps the tree, or a child climbs in it. They sometimes give way even on a calm day. Dead limbs are a red-flag signal for prompt action.

Check for Branches that Cross or Rub

Branches that cross or rub invariably lead to weak spots. These should be pruned off as soon as they are spotted, and the smaller the better.

Determine the Tree's Vigor

Evaluating a tree's vigor is somewhat subjective. However, experts say it is the surest early warning that there is a serious health problem in a tree. Vigor is reflected in the amount of leaf cover, and leaf size, color and condition. By comparing your tree with others of like size, you will be able to detect a less vigorous crown.

Why Branches Break

Large limbs can be weakened by rubbing, unrepaired storm damage, or poor pruning of side branches. The limb responds by forming barrier zones around each wound. These are weak spots that sometimes snap under the pressure of wind or ice.

A break at the branch collar is part of normal self-pruning, often caused by decay. Regular inspections for decay at branch junctions, followed by pruning, can prevent unexpected breakage.

Supporting trunk tissue sometimes gives way under stress. More research is needed to determine exactly why, but allowing large, horizontal limbs to develop may put unreasonable demands on the tree.

Examine the Trunk

Watch for Forked Trunks

Forked trunks are signals of potential weakness, especially if one side of the fork has grown outward instead of upward like the other. Narrow-angled forks are also prone to infection, often indicated by sap or pitch being exuded. Early pruning of one side of the fork can prevent these problems; cables or braces are corrective actions taken by arborists to strengthen the fork in trees of higher value.

Look for Tree Balance

Leaning or lopsided trees present more of a hazard than those growing vertically, but if a tree has always grown off center, it generally is not an undue risk. However, any sudden lean indicates breakage or weakening of support roots and should be cause for alarm and immediate action.

Look for Signs of Decay

Clues to internal decay of the trunk or large branches are cavities, disfiguration (cankers) and the fruiting bodies of fungi (conks). Sometimes there are no outward indications. Arborists then use one of the methods shown below to check for decay.

Examine Wounds and Cracks

Any trunk wound is an opening for decay. Wounds extending into the ground, including lightning scars, should be of particular concern and examined regularly. Some cracks, such as frost cracks, have little effect on the strength of a trunk. However if two vertical cracks appear on opposite sides of the tree, it can be a sign of root injury or breakage. It is usually associated with a circumferential separation of wood internally and is extremely dangerous.

Don't Forget the Roots

Root decay is often insidious and difficult to detect. Noted tree expert Dr. Alex L. Shigo calls the organisms that cause root problems "the sneaky fungi." Sometimes their work in weakening support roots goes completely unnoticed because the smaller feeder roots may go right on absorbing water and lawn fertilizer. Then, suddenly, one day the tree falls over. To detect root decay, look carefully for "mushrooms" on or near the base of the tree. If found, or if root trouble is suspected, have an arborist dig up some roots to sample for decay organisms.

Trenching or construction within the root zone is a major cause of hazard trees. The problem is two- pronged. First, severed roots lose their ability to support the trunk and crown, especially if located on the windward side of the tree. Second, severed roots are open wound that invite decay organisms.

Note: Allowing roots to be cut, then watering and fertilizing to aid recovery is not a guarantee against decay. Decay organisms thrive on this treatment, too.

Checklist for Preventing Hazard Trees

• Inspect your trees carefully several times each year and in all seasons. Annually, have a qualified arborist inspect your trees and provide you with a written report.

• Avoid planting brittle species where falling limbs could injure people or property. Some examples:
• • Silver Maple
  • Lombardy Poplar
  • Box Elder
  • Willows

• Prune trees when they are young and regularly thereafter.

   

• Use correct pruning methods, always making the pruning cut outside the branch collar.

   

• Don't allow trees to be topped.

   

• Always plant the right tree in the right place. For example, avoid planting large-growing trees under power lines, or too close to your house, and make sure the species selected matches the soil and other site characteristics.

   

• Water deeply during dry periods, slowly applying at least 1" of water.

   

• Erect barriers around or slightly beyond the dripline of trees during construction. Insist that these root protection zones be honored by construction workers.

   

• Consider cabling or bracing weak forks or branches in older trees of high value. This is work or a professional arborist.

   

• Do not plant trees with narrowly-forked stems.

   

• Where a high value tree may be suspected of developing into a hazard, use landscaping to keep people at a safe distance. This may require techniques such a re-routing walks, moving patio furniture, or planting shrubs and hedges as barriers to foot traffic.

   

• Remember: a heathy, vigorous tree that receives regular care is less likely to become a hazard than one that is ignored. Prevention is the best solution to the tree hazard problem